Taking a Bite Out of Lisbon
My personal motto when traveling is that the best way to experience and explore a new city is through my stomach. Usually this means mapping the city based on cuisines and restaurants I want to try, with a few landmarks and sights sprinkled in between bites. I knew this is exactly how I wanted to explore Lisbon when I booked my flight there following a business trip to Budapest earlier this summer.
The city catapulted to the top of my destinations list after listening to my sister, Maddy, rave about it endlessly following a culinary retreat she did there last year. She filled my head with stories of endless eggy and thick pasteis de nata, mile after mile of brightly tiled buildings, and quaint restaurants tucked away in streets and alleyways stacked on top of one another on steep hills. In short, my sister was my guiding force to Lisbon.
However, despite her being the one to plant the seed of Lisbon in my mind, she wasn't actually able to travel with me to show me around one of her favorite cities. In fact, I pretty much thought I would have to make my way around the city alone, which I wasn't too keen on, but I pretty much resigned myself to as my flight approached.
That is, until the drive to the airport. P surprised me with the news that he would be joining me at the end of the week. I was so overwhelmed that I nearly burst into tears as we pulled up to SFO. Sure, I cry over commercials and sentimental pics of strangers on Instagram, but can you really blame me for this one?!
So for the whole week in Budapest, I looked forward to our weekend getaway in Lisbon. Maddy sent me a list of all of her favorite things to do, eat, and see in the city so I felt well-prepared by the time I landed in the Lisbon Portela Airport. This is where P once again surprised me by meeting me at the airport instead of at the Airbnb like we originally planned. He said he did this because he didn't want me to get lonely on the hour-ish long ride to the Airbnb, but let's be real, he meant he just didn't want me to get lost, as navigation is not exactly forte...especially in foreign cities. It was a sweet sentiment nonetheless!
Bairro Alto, Lisbon (June 2018)
The next three and a half days were spent stuffing ourselves with mountains of pasteis de nata, copious amounts of ceviche, and lots and lots of beer as we watched the World Cup and celebrated with Germans after their team won their match against Sweden (but we all know how that ultimately turned out just a few days later). We squeezed a few sights and landmarks in between meals, but for the most part, we roamed Lisbon on the whims of our appetites. And while this may have left the numbers on my scale a little higher and the figures in my wallet a little lower, I wouldn't have had it any other way.
Grabbing some shade as we waited for Ponto Final to open its doors for dinner in Almada (June 2018)
Where We stayed:
Short Stay Flat Airbnb in Bairro Alto - Right smack dab in the middle of Lisbon's busiest neighborhoods, this Airbnb was a great place for city newcomers like P and myself. It did get a little hot because of the lack of air conditioning, but we were never in the apartment long enough to really notice.
What We Did/Saw:
While we did a few tours for our recent Vietnam trip, we decided to forego guided tours for Lisbon and explore the city on our own with the help of Maddy's recommendations and Google Maps. This was made quite easy with pages like the Top Lisbon Photo Instagram and its gallery of Lisbon's most photogenic sights and scenes. Additionally, P browsed and bookmarked many of the places we ended up at based on lists like the Eater Guide to Lisbon.
Alfama - Alfama is the oldest district in Lisbon, and is full of beautifully tiled buildings that come in all shapes and colors as well as many Fado (a music genre unique to Portugal) restaurants and bars. When thinking of Alfama one word that comes to mind is: vibrant.
Panteao Nacional Lisbon (Campo de Santa Clara, 1100-471 Lisboa, Portugal)
Feira da Ladra (Campo de Santa Clara, 1100-472 Lisboa, Portugal) - A large and historic flea market in the Alfama district. It's a great place for finding kitschy knick knacks as well as handmade goods.
Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (Av. Brasília, 1300-598 Lisboa, Portugal)
Where We Ate & Drank:
Agua Pela Barba (Rua do Almada 29/31, 1200-054 Lisboa, Portugal) - Our favorite meal during our stay in Lisbon. Agua Pela Barba was the perfect way to end a long day of walking with its light and refreshing seafood fare. Favorites included the white fish and sweet potato ceviche and the octopus tartare. Reservations recommended.
Alfama Cellar (Rua dos Remédios 127-131, 1100-451 Lisboa, Portugal) - After what felt like 10 miles of hiking in the Alfama district under a glaring sun, P and I parked ourselves in Alfama Cellar for a midday meal. We ended up ordering the veal cheek stew (which was piping hot and did not help with the fact that I was already feeling like I was drenched in sweat), but it was oh-so good and well worth the additional overheating.
Manteigaria (Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa, Portugal) - Gooey, thick egg tarts known as pasteis de nata are the speciality at this chain of cafes. A pasteis (doused in cinnamon for me, powdered sugar for P) and a cup of coffee were the best way to start our mornings. Folks well-versed in dim sum and other Chinese pastries will recognize pasteis as a relative of the just as delicious dan tat.
Time Out Market (Av. 24 de Julho 49, 1200-479 Lisboa, Portugal) - If you're looking for a place to try Portugal's many and various culinary offerings under one roof, then Time Out Market is it. From charcuterie to ceviche to croquettes to pasteis, this food hall has it all. Plus, lots of alcohol options to accompany your meal, which is never a bad thing.
Ponto Final (Rua do Ginjal 72, Almada, Portugal) - Just a short ferry ride away from Lisbon sits the city of Almada, and on the coast of Almada sits Ponto Final. With unbeatable views of Lisbon, the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge, we came to Ponto Final on our final (get it?) night of vacation. The food is simple and homey, which made it feel like we were dining al fresco in a friend's backyard as opposed to an actual restaurant.
A variety of meat and meat cones (aka P's dream come true) at Time Out Market (June 2018)
Clam risotto from Agua Pela Barba (June 2018)
Incredibly thick and delicious pasteis de nata sprinkled with cinnamon from Manteigaria (June 2018)
Octopus tartare from Agua Pela Barba (June 2018)
The breathtaking dining area of Ponto Final, with its open air seating and unbarred views of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge (June 2018)
P and me deliriously happy at Ponto Final (June 2018)